“Hold the dogs,” shouts the local guide as we approach a nomad’s home in the Gobi Desert somewhere in the middle of Central Mongolia. It’s a Mongolian phrase we learn quickly, which is customary to let the family know they have visitors. We are greeted, fittingly, by the resident dogs along with a man and a welcoming wave as he slowly tieds the dogs up and sets down some kibble. With a smile he offers an invite inside for a chat, sweets, and a glimpse into nomadic life. Forthcoming, friendly, and rich in stories from his 85 years, this hospitality and these opportunities for local interactions provide great context to the Mongolia experience. Our host eagerly offers his snuff bottle and some milk tea as we speak about family, his animals, and his routine, while we share laughs and feel the warmth of genuine hospitality.
Mongolia is full of incredibly friendly and hospitable people in what is a land of harsh and inhospitable extremes. Learning the Nomadic way of life—both by experiencing the vast landscapes as well as meeting the people and learning of their timeless traditions—is one of the uniquely memorable experiences one has while visiting Mongolia.
With a size of about 1.5 million sq-km and a population nearing only 3.5 million, Mongolia’s vast and open landscapes of verdant rolling hills, jagged mountain peaks, desert tranquility, crystal clear lakes, and ancient nomadic traditions offer travellers arguably some of the most remote, unique, and experiential memories in Asia. The mountain ridges, sweeping plains and steppes dotted with wildlife, herds of livestock, and the ubiquitous ger (yurt) camps are unique and captivating sites for the eyes—and uniquely Mongolian.
While many destinations in the region have ever-expanding and bustling cities teeming with activity, busy streets, modern wonders, and crowded attractions, Mongolia quietly offers a beautifully intriguing alternative with wide open spaces, outdoor activities, fantastic landscapes, and a make-your-own travel experience.
Before venturing into the rural expanse, the capital city of Ulaanbaatar provides an introduction and frame of reference to the country's remote grandeur. A relatively unique and small city, Ulaanbaatar claims the unfortunate title of the coldest capital city with some of the poorest air quality in the world, due to the very visible coal power plants trying to keep the place warm. For visitors, the city boasts notable museums, a rich culinary scene, luxury accommodations, historic temples and monasteries, and acts as the gateway to the wilds of Mongolia. While not on any best-of lists, the perspective the city offers visitors is notable to understand the wide spectrum of the Mongolian experience.
Driving long distances is not uncommon when travelling through Mongolia and the terrain as it unfolds keeps your eyes fastened to the window as you rumble by an endless variety of stunning scenes with insights into daily nomadic life. These varied landscapes with ger camps are what set Mongolia apart and create a unique feast for the eyes. This is what travellers come to Mongolia to see and experience as they venture into the seemingly endless expanse of rural adventure. It can be rough, dirty, and with little amenity, but the rewards are worth it.
An integral and unavoidable part of an itinerary in Mongolia is staying in ger camps in traditional style yurts. The ger camp accommodations as you venture into the wild range from traditional, simple, and comfortable with clean but shared facilities and limited electricity to an increasing capacity of improved gers with en suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, and other modern amenities. Under the vast Mongolian sky, evenings at ger camps provide great opportunities to admire the stars and soak in the peaceful wilderness while enjoying an authentic and unique lodging experience.
With only limited paved roads, your experience in Mongolia starts as you head off road and into the wonders of the steppe, grasslands, and desert wilderness. It’s exciting to experience a country in Asia this way. Rich in outdoor activities, Mongolia offers visitors endless and seemingly untouched scenery, wilderness, hiking, horseback, and outdoor experiences.
While traversing the wilds of the Gobi, we run into a herd of livestock who have gathered around a well where the nomad herder tends to the generator pumping freshwater into makeshift troughs. Throughout the Gobi, these lifelines are part of a regular route and routine for nomads and their herds as they stop for hydration and rest. We learn that the herder is there with his grandchildren as they appear from the small hut eager to see who was visiting. After a fun and friendly exchange, the grandfather quickly directs one child to gather a few straggling camels, and the boy instantly runs off and gets the herd in line with skillful ease. Interestingly, in a world where overtourism is a hot topic, this interaction felt to be truly genuine with curiosity on both sides.
While bouncing along improvised roads, it’s easy to feel like you’re on a safari as you admire and scan the scenery for the abundant herds of livestock and wildlife from gazelle to ibex to the famed little pikas—a welcome surprise from the anticipated emptiness of the country. Each day in the Gobi brings new discoveries, vistas, and outdoor adventure.
From a hike to discover the historic Khavtsgait Petroglyphs to the scenic Yolyn Am Gorge or Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag, there is undoubtedly lots to see and your interest and energy level will determine what adventures you unlock and what views you admire. The journey through dramatic scenery on bumpy roads to the Khongor Sand Dunes is one I’ll never forget. Such natural, rugged, and seemingly untouched scenery concludes at an oasis near the dunes with flowing water, vibrant green grass, and horses and camels grazing among a backdrop of the towering golden dunes.
With few guard rails, limited-to-no barriers, and true traveller freedom to explore and camp, this joy of so freely exploring the Great Outdoors is one of Mongolia’s great treasures and one that draws travellers back again and again.
A complete contrast to many parts of the world, Mongolia doesn’t suffer from a lack of space or overcrowding. It’s common to arrive at a point of interest and have the place to yourself. Amusingly, after a few days of not seeing what seemed like more than a handful of other travellers, it wasn’t until we arrived at a small local airport that we were reminded of the many other visitors who were out there discovering and exploring.
The scenery, rich culture, and historic legacy combined with the ability to truly explore and personalize your adventure makes Mongolia one of the last frontiers for a tailor-made travel experience. The word luxury can mean many things to many people and while the traditional luxury hotel rooms are few and far between, it is the experience itself that defines luxury when traversing the rugged beauty and timeless tradition of Mongolia’s splendour.
My interest in travel started young and was inspired through road trips, summer adventure, and countryside journeys with family. This interest was solidified while living overseas and I’m fortunate to have had the opportunity to continue to explore this interest further abroad, both personally and professionally. Having spent a few years living in various places in Asia after graduating school, I still consider it my second home and I’m always eager to get back to explore old haunts and head off somewhere new.