Under the Stars of the Judean Desert

Geographically, Israel is a tiny country, only about 18 percent the size of New York state. But despite its size, you can do a lot here: ski on Mount Hermon, surf on the Mediterranean, hit the clubs of Tel Aviv, or immerse yourself in the spiritual traditions of Jerusalem. And it's all within a few hours’ drive. And then there’s the desert, where the night sky is unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Noctourism is one of the hottest trends these days. It’s all about travel experiences that can only be done at night, such as stargazing or bioluminescent tours. The Judean Desert is a perfect place to experience noctourism for yourself. 

There’s nothing quite like leaving the hustle and bustle of Tel Aviv and driving just 1.5 hours south to Kfar Hanokdim, a true desert oasis. Stepping out of the vehicle, you’re surrounded by endless rolling hills and rocky landscapes stretching as far as the eye can see. As soon as we arrived, our Bedouin hosts, dressed in white jellabiyas, welcomed us and invited us for a traditional dinner. We sat on floor cushions around a low table and shared a feast of kebabs, hummus with warm pita, rice pilaf, and for dessert, baklava, dates, and Arabic coffee. Beyond the delicious food, what stood out most was our hosts’ hospitality. The Bedouins have lived in the desert for centuries. Experiencing their way of life made me appreciate not just the landscape but the people who have thrived in it for so many generations. After dinner, we rode camels to get a feel for how people historically travelled through the region. 

Once night fell, we wandered deep into the desert, leaving the lights of Kfar Hanokdim behind, until only the moon and stars lit the way. The silence was absolute. We sat down and reflected on our lives, taking in the surreal feeling of being on the other side of the world surrounded by nothing but sand, sky, and stillness. Noctourism is all about escaping the crowds, embracing the night, and experiencing a destination in an unreal way. There’s something special about seeing a place when most of the world is asleep, and in that moment, the Judean Desert felt like it belonged only to us. It was a moment of peace, reflection, and awe for the world around me—until I suddenly remembered that I was not alone. The realization that scorpions were probably lurking nearby snapped me right out of my deep thoughts. 

From there, we returned to Kfar Hanokdim, set up a bonfire, sang songs, and played cards. We spent the night in a traditional Bedouin tent made of goat’s hair. Drifting off to sleep in the desert was peaceful, with nothing but the cool, dry air and the sound of the wind as company.

We woke at 4am the next morning to hike up Masada and catch the sunrise over the Dead Sea. The ancient fortress is reached via the Snake Path, a steep 2.7 km (1.6 mi) climb. The trek was tough but reaching the top just in time to watch the sunrise over the desert made every step worth it. It was moving to stand there knowing that thousands of years ago, people stood in the same spots, looking out at the same view. It’s also the ideal climax to a noctourism experience. Once the sun was up, we drove 10 minutes to the Dead Sea, where we floated at the lowest point on Earth before continuing to Eilat on the Red Sea. 

I had been to Israel before, but this trip felt different. It wasn’t just about seeing the desert but about immersing myself in it. Israel may be small, but it’s not lacking for personality, or stories and experiences to take your breath away.