The Science & Emotion of Indian Street Food

In the spring, I hosted three journalists on a press trip through India for Goway. We explored Delhi, Varanasi, Jaipur, Ranthambore National Park, and Agra. India is a daunting destination for many travellers; upon arrival, it immediately engulfs all your senses. It also overwhelms your emotions with a spiritual energy and thunderous current of humanity. 

On our journey across the so-called Golden Triangle of the northwest, we did a lot of walking and eagerly went out to meet vegetable merchants, rooftop pigeon keepers, musicians, and historians. We brushed shoulders with pilgrims in the narrow alleys of old Varanasi and watched sari-wrapped dancers in marble columned courtyards under desert starlight. We floated in a hot air balloon over the hills of Jaipur and saw the Taj Mahal in the moments before dawn, but a walking street food tour in Old Delhi led by Dr. Rajeev Goyal was likely the standout experience. 

Dr. Goyal is the founder of the India Food Tourism Organization and an acclaimed food researcher. “My research was focused on the sensory science of Indian spices,” he told me. “But more than my title, it’s my day-to-day experiences—working with food, meeting vendors, cooking with passion—that have shaped who I am. Over the years, my academic journey and my culinary career brought me close to the science, culture, and history of food. But it was while walking the narrow lanes of Old Delhi, seeing the stories unfold at every corner—the chaat vendor, the kulfi maker, the man roasting spices—that I realized these stories needed to be told. That’s when the idea of food tours was born.”

We first met Dr. Goyal outside the Jama Masjid, a striking figure with aviator sunglasses atop a thick moustache. His firm handshake and booming voice immediately took charge in the crowded Old Delhi street. Before touring Old Delhi with Dr. Goyal, I knew India’s food varies regionally, but I didn’t fully appreciate before just how intentional Indian food is for its unique climate and seasons. India has western food options, but we soon realized that those meals would leave us lethargic and hot and wouldn't digest as well in the high heat as puri bhaji would, for example, a light potato curry and thin fried bread breakfast staple. We also learned to take advantage of the dozens of uniquely refreshing drinks perfect for the heat made from ingredients like rosewater, hibiscus flower, and mint. 

Dr. Goyal is obsessed with food science, spice, and how our taste buds interpret flavour. He was also passionate about introducing travellers to the ubiquitous street food scene of Old Delhi, where it’s existed for centuries. A walking tour is the best way to experience Old Delhi. In a growing metro area of 35 million people, crumbling old havelis lean into the winding, narrow streets, with cobwebs of electrical wires overhead and faded paint hinting at a time long ago. The doors of many compounds were left open, revealing broom-swept courtyards of families living their daily lives, kids waving hello. Human or animal-powered carts of fruits or goods passed motorcycle- or rickshaw-borne commuters. Occasionally, a sketchy looking monkey would scowl at us from a safe perch. For any photographer, this is a living artwork.

The street food stalls have character as well, the kind that sometimes makes visitors wary of eating at them. Dr. Goyal immediately acknowledged some of these valid concerns about street food. “We’ve built our tours around trust, hygiene, and curated experience,” he said. “Every vendor we include has been personally vetted—not just for taste, but for food safety and consistency. We serve filtered water, use clean disposable plates, and avoid anything that could cause discomfort. Our goal is to give you the true flavours of the street—safely and memorably.” 

True to his word, before we set out, Dr. Goyal issued each of us a small bag with water, hand sanitizer, and hand wipes, explaining his strict rules: sanitize our hands at each of the various food stalls, stay hydrated, and (most importantly) don’t eat before he tells us to. We explored various streets and alleyways sampling numerous curries, lassis (yogurt smoothie drink), mango-sandwiches with the crusts cut off, and several sweets like gulab jamun and kulfi, Indian ice cream. “Street food is often seen as cheap, risky, or overwhelming,” he said. “In reality, it’s the soul of Indian daily life—it’s where flavour innovation happens. Through our tours, we help people see the artistry behind these humble stalls and the cultural relevance of what they serve. It’s fast food, yes—but with history, technique, and heart.”

Dr. Goyal led us through the old city while repeatedly referring to two core concepts: that to deal with their hot climate, “Indians eat our water and drink our food.” Leaning on his scientific background, he taught us how water and oil can drastically affect the heat of spice in various dishes. While people assume Indian food is always spicy, “That’s a myth we love to break,” he said. “Indian food isn’t just spicy—it’s layered, aromatic, sweet, sour, and umami-rich.” While we ate potato curry with a hint of spice out of disposable paper bowls, Dr. Goyal perfectly described the curry’s flavour right down to exactly where we were tasting it on our tongue. He then told us to take a second and then a third bite and helped us notice how the flavour evolved each time, triggering and awakening different taste buds. Combine a fourth bite with oil-fried bread and you get a jaw-dropping, totally different flavour. Try a fifth bite with baked bread and now you appreciate a spicier flavour profile. More than once, we gasped in surprise at his insights. 

“Living abroad helped me see Indian food through the eyes of others,” Dr. Goyal explained. “I learned how people perceive it, what confuses or excites them. It made me more mindful about how I explain dishes—not just what they are, but why they matter. I also realized how emotionally connected we are to our food—and that storytelling is just as important as the recipe.” 

Dr. Goyal changed the way I understand spice, flavour, and the way that food transforms. He also left us with some essential advice to share with others hungry to follow in our footsteps and experience the soul of India in its humble street food. When people come from abroad, “don’t just visit India, taste it,” said Dr. Goyal. “Street food is tradition served on a paper plate. Come with an open mind and an empty stomach—and I promise, you’ll leave with a full heart.”

Discover India on a custom foodie tour.