Uncovering the Treasures of Jordan

Likely the first time I ever saw an image of Jordan was when watching Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as a child. In his search for the Holy Grail, Harrison Ford’s famous archaeologist passes through a cliff fissure and is met with the sight of a massive structure carved into the cliff wall. In the film, the Holy Grail waits for Indy inside, but I was struck by the building itself, which transforms the red rock face into one of the most elaborate designs I had ever seen. This structure is the Treasury at Petra, and however much it impressed me while watching The Last Crusade, the real thing blew me away when I finally saw it in person. 

Petra, the northern capital of the ancient kingdom of the Nabataeans, is the grand treasure of Jordan and one of the world’s most impressive historical monuments. But it only scratches the surface of what awaits you in Jordan. Jordan is one of the oldest countries in the world, but its glory is not stuck in the past tense. Rather, its magic is alive wherever you find yourself within its borders, from the markets of Amman to the salty waters of the Dead Sea to the red sands of Wadi Rum. Visiting Jordan is like travelling back in time. But it’s also a wonderful place to explore in the present, where you can share a meal with new friends, watch a sunset over the desert, or float your worries away on the world’s lowest lake. It’s magical, glorious, and so much more than what you see on the big screen. It’s a treasure you need to uncover for yourself. 

History Wherever You Look

Jordan’s capital, Amman, has been around for at least 9,000 years, making it one of the oldest continually inhabited cities on the planet. Head to Citadel Hill to experience a taste of the city’s ancient past on one of its highest points. Everyone from Babylonians to Byzantines used the hill for their administrative centres and temples. Today, you’ll discover Roman ruins, including pillars from the Temple of Hercules, mosaics from Byzantine churches, and old palace artifacts from the Umayyad Dynasty. 

From Amman, pick a direction and a new historical wonder awaits. To the north lies Jerash, one of the three best-preserved Roman cities outside of Rome itself. The massive archaeological site sprawls throughout the compact city centre. Pass under the Arch of Hadrian and along the Hippodrome and you’ll reach a gentle hillside covered in ruins in every direction. It doesn’t take much to imagine the bustling Roman centre of the 1st century. Pillars line the old thoroughfare where Romans marched their legions. Amphitheatres still seat hundreds where performers would perform tragedies. Mosaics remain from unearthed Byzantine churches and mighty pillars from temples such as the Temple of Artemis continue to stand watch over the city. 

Continue to the northwest and you’ll reach Ajloun, one of many castles associated with the crusades. Saracens under Saladin successfully defended Ajloun against the invading European armies, but further south, particular at al-Kerak, you’ll find more castles where Crusaders ruled their fiefdoms during the short-lived Frankish Kingdom of Jerusalem. 

Also south of Amman lies Madaba, the Christian city that’s famous for its ancient mosaic floor that’s the oldest map of the Holy Land in the entire world. In the very south of the country lies Aqaba, the port city and gateway to Egypt and Saudi Arabia. World War I history buffs will recall that T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) led his famous assault on the Ottoman Turks at Aqaba. But even if history doesn’t fascinate you, the many Red Sea resorts lining the beaches of Aqaba should draw your interest. 

To the west of Amman lies the Jordan River, a modest river that gives the country its name and has enormous biblical importance. To the east of the river, Mount Nebo looks over the landscape, where Moses was said to have seen the Holy Land, knowing he could go no further. But just on the banks of the river itself are Bethany Beyond the Jordan, where John the Baptist held his ministry and baptized Jesus of Nazareth. Today, several churches line the site, which remains an important pilgrimage point for Christians around the world. Every direction you go in Jordan, you’ll uncover a new historical treasure. 

Suggested trip: Experience a taste of Jordan’s historic wonders, from Petra to Jerash, on Discover Jordan.

The Majesty of Petra

I only spent a day exploring this Nabataean settlement, but its impact looms large in my imagination. It starts with the walk along the Siq, the winding fissure that leads to the Treasury, and only the beginning of its many tombs and buildings set throughout the valley on the edge of Wadi Musa. The Siq twists and turns left and right, with the endless variety of sediment and wind and water erosion over millennia craving gorgeous patterns into the rock. After 20 minutes or so, the fissure narrows and a hush fills the crowd as you know you’re getting close. And then you glimpse your first sight of the Treasury, the iconic columns that Indiana Jones searched for in The Last Crusade, peeking out from between the rocks. You step into the opening, and the sheer scale of the Treasury overwhelms you. It’s only one of many such sites throughout Petra, which demands more days that I could muster to do it justice.  

Beyond the Treasury lies an amphitheatre and the Royal Tombs that line either side of the cliffs. While only tombs and ruins remain, this open area helps you understand how Petra was once the Nabataean capital, a bustling settlement for traders and kings. Follow the tombs and the twists in the rock and climb the steps up the cliff and you’ll eventually reach Ad-Dayr, the Monastery, which is larger than the Treasury. But even if you don’t make it that far, you’ll find so much to dazzle you. 

The Nabataeans carved tombs such as the Treasury and the Monastery from the rock face itself, meaning that the facades are seamless. One mistake and they would have had to start over, since there’s no stonework here beyond the slow top-to-bottom carving of a master craftsman. It’s marvellous and mind-boggling in its complexity, proof that the people of the past were every bit as ingenious as the artisans and engineers who astound us with their creations today. Petra is historical majesty, but it also demonstrates that sublime wedding of nature and history that makes the entire nation so beautiful. 

Nature that Takes your Breath Away

Standing in the northern hills on the border with Syria, you’d wonder whether you’d arrived in Spain or Portugal, such is the appeal of the vineyards gently rolling down the hillsides. Standing in the red sands of Wadi Rum in the south, where the night sky seems endless and the massive hills and sweeping dunes seem to whisper in the wind, and you’d think you’re on Mars or Arrakis. Taken together, these two parts of the country give you a picture of the diverse landscape of Jordan, and a taste of how striking its natural beauty is. 

In fact, Wadi Rum is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. Under the full sun, you feel like you’re living out Dune or The Martian as you explore its sands. I remember racing across the dunes in the back of a pickup truck, the wind on my face, the sand blowing behind us, the black rocks standing vigil over the awesome landscape that stretched as far as we could see. We felt alive and awed by the beauty of this vivid desert. Then the sun fell and the night sky burst to life with all its glory and I realized that some places are even better in the dark. There are no words to capture the beauty of the Milky Way above Wadi Rum; all I ask is you go here and sit on the sand in the quiet of the night and look up for yourself. 

The Dead Sea might not win a beauty contest with Wadi Rum, but there’s no other place like it anywhere in the world. It’s the lowest point on the planet and the saltiest lake you’ll ever find. The mud has exfoliating properties due to the high mineral density; rub it onto your body for a free and all-natural scrub. Then head into the water to rinse and float as the saline-rich waters hold you aloft, like a baby in a cradle. Just float and enjoy the salty air and feel all worries disappear like water in the sand. 

Suggested trip: Relax in a 5-star resort on the Dead Sea on Signature Jordan.

People to Make You Feel at Home

I’ve discussed the historic and natural wonder of Jordan, but not enough people mention the culture. Jordanians are endlessly hospitable, taking pride in their cultural history and embodying the famous hospitality of the Arabs. Jordanians are gregarious, curious, and want to put you at ease. In the markets, you’ll notice that shopkeepers barter, which can take a bit of getting used to for westerners, but they’re also polite and not too pushy, enjoying the barter as a bit of good fun that makes the sale even more enjoyable. 

Jordan’s food is also memorable, delicious, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise if you’ve ever been to the Middle East. Amman is rife with excellent restaurants, but you don’t need to go fancy to eat well in Jordan. In fact, I’ve never had better falafel than I had at the modest restaurant of Juniper Falafel in Wadi Musa. The warm, freshly fried chickpea balls were deliciously crisp on the outside and moist on the inside, bright green from all the fresh herbs mixed with the chickpeas and spices. The pita was so fluffy that it shamed what you find in a grocery store back home. It was even better enjoying this falafel looking out over Wadi Musa, spotting the Siq beneath you and the Tomb of Aaron, brother of Moses, in the hills in the far distance. 

Suggested trip: Experience the hospitality of Jordan on Jordan Odyssey. 

Is Jordan safe?

This is the big question, and the short answer is yes. Jordan is one of the safe havens of the Middle East. I visited in midst of the current conflict in the Middle East and while said conflict was a constant topic of conversation, I never once experienced anything but complete comfort and security during my time in the country. People are polite here. The tourism infrastructure is robust. The stability of the nation is a point of pride for its people, who embrace its role as peacemaker. So don’t let the news stand in the way of an adventure to the sands of this ancient land. 

If you’ve ever dreamed of visiting Petra, of walking through the sands of Wadi Rum, of floating in the Dead Sea, don’t put off your dreams. Experience the wonder of Jordan for yourself. Treasure awaits. 

Tailor-made trips to Jordan

Meaningful Travel Map of Jordan